Day 36: border crossing to Malawi

This is one of those days that is the best, and worst, of Africa.

Another long driving day. The sun rises and sets so steeply that the mornings are quite chilly, and I spend a good part of the morning wrapped in my Masai blanket. Then suddenly it's hot.

Out truck is constantly stopped for all manner of trivial infractions- not wearing seatbelts (we just passed a car load of 14, including babies in the front), inspection of the first aid kit (some vehicles dont even have windscreens), lack of reflective stripes on the front (um, we have headlights). Of course, this is done in the name of transportation safety, but we all know it's a extended invitation to buy the cops their lunch. And this is confirmed when invited to actually write a ticket for the supposed infringement, you are simply waved on. At some points a barrier arm rests across the road- it's not a police stop, just a frivolous, momentary detention as the attendant lazily walks out to remove it.

We stop for lunch in an abandoned service station forecourt, and immediately a man runs over with a frosty box of cokes. For all those flakes still hanging on to their jaded notions of communism, I give you the free market at its finest. A cold soda in the baking heat.

As we sit at the Malawi border a ruckus kicks up. A man is being held in position by a rapidly growing circle of detainers, and then a pig is trussed and then tied across his back. He staggers along under the weight of his porcine yoke as the crowd takes pot shots with fists, feet, elbows. The man is marched off into a local constable's office to jeers, and judging by his attempted speed it seems he is keen to get there. Street justice is swift and severe- the penalty for attempting to steal a pig.

The drive continues, and with the opportunity presented by a quick re-fuel, I duck into a store and buy a box of Carlsbergs for the truck. I sit sipping on a cold, 90 kwacha (60 cent) lager, my arm out the window and Lake Malawi is visible. Flanked by a tall, flat mountain range on one side, and traditional farmland on the other, it's yet another stunning view.

I sit, sipping my beer, enjoying the cool breeze and a breath taking view. Yeah, things are pretty fucking good right now. As the local say- TIA. This is Africa.