Days 90-91: Moravsky Kras, Czech Republic

Today, a stunning one hour trip through the underground cave system known as Punkevsky. There are some incredible rock formations, with both the forms of stalags (-mite and -tite) well represented, and other rocks that resemble melted wax. The short spelunk ends with a boat ride across the underground river which opens out into a small chasm, the contrasting light from above turning the sky line into a haze of cascading water and diffused beams.

The caves are so impressive that my enjoyment is only slightly mitigated by the gum-smacking, giggling Czechs alongside me.

The Czechs sure take their outdoors seriously. The park surrounding the cave system has free entry (and the caves themselves are less than $10), and the area is packed with people cycling and walking. Even with its communist heritage less than a generation in the past, the Czechs defy their capitalist infancy by decking themselves out in full cycling kit- I even spy a dude in head to toe Tour de France lycra gear as he propels his scooter along the path, his shrink-wrapped chicken leg no doubt scything along at an extra 10% efficiency with the aid of finest cycling technology. Next, I have a flash of nostalgia for back home as I spy the all too familiar sight of middle-aged man-junk wrapped in spandex as I sip my morning coffee. Although this time there is Czech twist to proceedings as all the cyclists tuck into a 9am half-litre of beer to refuel. It sure beats a soy latte.