Days 94-95: Graz, Austria

Sometimes you have to chuck the guidebook, to hell with your plans, and try something a bit different. According to my initial plan (not really a plan, more a rough precis in my head, with nothing booked) was to head down to Slovenia, stopping off in Vienna.

But with my emerging signs of Euro-fatigue, verging on full-blown apathy in Bratislava, I decide to skip Vienna and head off into a smaller town and explore the country side. It's not that the cities aren't all amazing, because they are. Each one is home to countless architectural gems in the form of churches, castles, town squares and bridges. But there's only so much you can take before the eyes start to glaze over.

So, pretty much based on the train timetable, I end up in Graz. It turned out to be a good choice.

Graz is a cute little student town, mercifully free of tourists. The people are really friendly and willing help (much the same as my experience in Germany- maybe they are compensating for something?). The town is packed with art, both renaissance and post-modern.

There are also some touches of Austro-German folk culture, and I sit in bewilderment and watch a traditional band, complete with lederhosen. Forget the rise of Fascism and the fall of Europe, fighting to prevent this kind of music from being imposed on us was reason enough to fight in 2 world wars.

This is topped by the next cultural extravaganza- a live sculpture demonstration. But there are no chisels or brushes for these artists. With the usual Teutonic subtlety and delicate touch, the Austrian artists deal to their wooden medium with chainsaws. Need a finishing touch- use a slightly smaller chainsaw. It's blitzkrieg art. It feels almost mandatory to follow this with a sausage and some dry bread.

As much as I enjoy this taste of Austria, I decide to head out into the countryside for some hiking and see what the Austrian outdoors has to offer.