Day 106: Rasafa, Syria

Even more impressive than the remains of Palmyra is the ruined Roman frontier fort of Rasafa.  It's a massive site, once home to a garrison on the fringes of Roman rule, the last outpost against foreign incursions.  Where Palmyra retains it former pomp and golden hue, Rasafa is a crumbling, weather beaten facade, barely holding on to its foundations.  It's faded charm reminds me of the cities of Damascus and Aleppo- remnants of a great age struggling to survive the passage of time and the weight of the modern world.

The fate of the fort at Rasafa reflects that of the Romans.  It is sinking, slowly but surely, into the sand- the slow decline of a once mighty empire.  But where the Romans succumbed to the relentless barbarian invasions, wilting under the constant pressure of Goths, Huns and Franks, the fort succumbs to the withering effects of nature- wind, sun, sand and earthquakes.

Now, even a solitary traveller can conquer its defences.

But while the facade of the fort- the walls, temples and barracks- crumble, tottering and ready to fall in the next earthquake or possibly even a strong breeze, a magnificent underground water cistern remains intact.  The entrance to the subterranean water supply is almost closed, crusted over with calcium and layered with dust, but underneath the cistern is perfectly preserved. The Roman arch proved to be stronger than its empire.