Days 106-110: Damascus and Aleppo, Syria; continued

You can tell a lot about a country by the style and frequency with which its leaders are depicted around the cities.  And Syria has some of the best political propaganda going around.

My favourite are those of the current president Bashar Al-Bassad, in his many forms- military leader, complete with fatigues and mirrored glasses.  Saviour of the people- hands outstretched in beneficence to an adoring crowd.  Family man, with his devoted wife and children gathered around him.  Successor of a beloved political dynasty, pictured alongside his father the previous President.  Then there are various regional depictions, each with a stock photo of the President very poorly photoshopped against a matte background featuring the pertinent local monument or site of significance.

This is exactly the sort of thing that you expect from a rogue nation such as Syria.  A near dictatorship which features free elections but only one political candidate to vote, who just happens to be the son of the previous ruler.  A country where facebook and youtube are banned for their demoralising and corrupting influence. State sponsor of terrorism, supporter of the axis of evil.

The reputation of the country, however, bears no relation to its people.  There are welcomes and greetings everywhere, not just the empty compliments of touts and shopkeepers as a prelude to a sale, but genuine concern and best wishes.  When a Syrian says "you are most welcome" they really mean it.

There is a culture of hospitality among Syrians, and stopping to ask a teenage boy for directions results in you being taken to his family home to meet mother, father and sisters and sharing tea, sandwiches, biscuits and juice, with further invitation to join them for dinner and a family outing the next day. 

The Syrians rival the Malawians and Cambodians for friendliest people I have met.