Day 113: Petra, Jordan

Petra is the most famous of all Jordan's sites, and is one of the most famous tourist attractions in the world.  And for good reason.

The entrance to the rock-hewn city of Petra is through a narrow, dark gorge known as the Siq.  By itself, this is a worthy tourist site, a deep ravine in the mountains that becomes so narrow in parts it's almost possible to touch both sides of the canyon at the same time.  The Siq winds on for hundreds of metres before, dramatically, opening into a partial view of Petra's most famous building- the Treasury (also known to some as 'that Indiana Jones one').

The Treasury may be the most famous part of Petra, but there is so much more, and it all defies belief.  The rockface is a magnificent rose colour, contrasting against the dry yellow and beige of the desert floor. At some points there are natural caves and archways which burst into a multi-coloured spray that is so intense, so bright, that you think it's been painted.

There are crowds of people everywhere, matched almost one for one by hopeful Bedouin merchants offering everything from overpriced drinks to scarves, jewellery, pieces of rock and donkey or camel rides.  The main thoroughfares have the feeling of a carnival, hordes of tourists and touts with constant stalls along the way.

Then there is the most amazing thing of all- how a 6th century B.C civilization managed to construct such an impressive series of buildings.  The Nabateans were the masterminds behind Petra, and they manged it without the skills, training and equipment of the Romans.  An entire city complex of temples, civic buildings, theatres and cemeteries, all carved from the face of a canyon in the middle of a harsh desert.  It's amazing that the city even exists at all, as the low lying canyon is prone to flash floods, but the Nabateans were able to control the water supply through aqueducts and cisterns which still survive.

 

Beyond the main tourist traps in and around the Treasury, Petra opens out into a massive plain, flanked by massive, imposing mountains.  Of course, there is no such thing as restricted areas, so you are free to wander up and into the mountains to discover more wonders- a mountaintop monastery, a sacrificial altar overlooking the city.  It takes the best part of 8 hours walking and climbing to appreciate Petra, and that's just beginning to scratch the surface.

Day 112: Dead Sea, Jordan

Jordan may well be a contender for home of the most spectacular natural attractions in the world.  Within a few hours of easy (if steep and hot) driving you can float on top of the salt-saturated water in the Dead Sea, wander through the canyons of Petra and marvel at the immense desert-sea of Wadi Rum.

Floating in the Dead Sea is a surreal experience.  As you wade into the water you begin to notice a slight bouyancy, as if your legs were filling with air.  At just over hip height your legs whip up from underneath you, pushed up by all the minerals in the water, but rather than falling you simply float, perfectly atop the water.  This bizarre sensation is only outdone by the intense salt burn- a slight underarm chafing leads to extreme pain which takes 2 showers to shift.

From there, it's into the vast, inhospitable Jordanian mountains.  A series of craggy, spiky peaks that stretch into the distance, only ending when they are lost in the desert haze.

 But this is the Middle East, so no matter how hot, how inhospitable the terrain, no matter how isolated, there will always be one thing to rely on- tea.

 That night, I watch the sun go down over the valley of Petra.

Day 107: Krak des Chevaliers, Syria

There are a lot of great reasons to travel.  Travel expands the mind.  You learn about new cultures, history, art and architecture.  It makes you want to learn more, to read books and talk about what you've seen.  Meeting new people challenges your preconceptions of countries and individuals.  It's fair to say that travel makes you a smarter, more well-rounded person.

But then, it doesn't always need to be so serious.  One of the greatest joys of travel are those moments that make you feel like a child again.  As a boy I would pore over books about knights and castles, reading about the Crusades, medieval battles and the famous names of Richard the Lion Heart and Saladin.  To a boy, it's endlessly fascinating, but they might as well be fairy tales- crusader castles in Syria might as well be Narnia.

And then, one day, you are there, standing at the massive gates to the greatest crusader castle in the world, and it makes you feel like a kid again. That feeling of nostalgia, insane happiness and hyperactivity all at once.  Because it's Syria, nothing is fenced off, nothing is out of bounds (and even if it is, you just climb over the fence and noone could care less) and I get to spend 2 hours climbing in and under secret passages, standing on top of ramparts and spying through arrow slits. 

I come back later in the day and watch the sun go down, and sleep on a nearby rooftop within stone's throwing distance of the castle walls. I sleep a contended child's sleep that night.

Day 106: Rasafa, Syria

Even more impressive than the remains of Palmyra is the ruined Roman frontier fort of Rasafa.  It's a massive site, once home to a garrison on the fringes of Roman rule, the last outpost against foreign incursions.  Where Palmyra retains it former pomp and golden hue, Rasafa is a crumbling, weather beaten facade, barely holding on to its foundations.  It's faded charm reminds me of the cities of Damascus and Aleppo- remnants of a great age struggling to survive the passage of time and the weight of the modern world.

The fate of the fort at Rasafa reflects that of the Romans.  It is sinking, slowly but surely, into the sand- the slow decline of a once mighty empire.  But where the Romans succumbed to the relentless barbarian invasions, wilting under the constant pressure of Goths, Huns and Franks, the fort succumbs to the withering effects of nature- wind, sun, sand and earthquakes.

Now, even a solitary traveller can conquer its defences.

But while the facade of the fort- the walls, temples and barracks- crumble, tottering and ready to fall in the next earthquake or possibly even a strong breeze, a magnificent underground water cistern remains intact.  The entrance to the subterranean water supply is almost closed, crusted over with calcium and layered with dust, but underneath the cistern is perfectly preserved. The Roman arch proved to be stronger than its empire.

Day 106: Palmyra, Syria

Syria has Roman ruins better than those in Rome. With the world's oldest inhabited cities of Damascus and Aleppo, Syria is built on layers of great civilizations.  But where in Rome the artifacts of the past are being eroded by encroaching apartment blocks and metro lines, the Syrian monuments remained untouched, preserved by the hostility of the surrounding desert and lack of infrastructure investment.

It's one of the great magnanimities of Islam that they allowed existing religious buildings to stand following the Arab conquest of the 7th century.  In Rome, the newly converted Christians made a point of destroying or defacing anything that held religious significance for any rival pagan religions.

Palmyra is everything you would expect from one of the richest cities of the Roman empire, a city that gorged itself on the wealth of passing trade caravans.  Palmyra is a golden framework of temples, pillars, baths and avenues.  The opulent child born of marvellous Roman engineering and eastern wealth.

Days 106-110: Damascus and Aleppo, Syria; continued

You can tell a lot about a country by the style and frequency with which its leaders are depicted around the cities.  And Syria has some of the best political propaganda going around.

My favourite are those of the current president Bashar Al-Bassad, in his many forms- military leader, complete with fatigues and mirrored glasses.  Saviour of the people- hands outstretched in beneficence to an adoring crowd.  Family man, with his devoted wife and children gathered around him.  Successor of a beloved political dynasty, pictured alongside his father the previous President.  Then there are various regional depictions, each with a stock photo of the President very poorly photoshopped against a matte background featuring the pertinent local monument or site of significance.

This is exactly the sort of thing that you expect from a rogue nation such as Syria.  A near dictatorship which features free elections but only one political candidate to vote, who just happens to be the son of the previous ruler.  A country where facebook and youtube are banned for their demoralising and corrupting influence. State sponsor of terrorism, supporter of the axis of evil.

The reputation of the country, however, bears no relation to its people.  There are welcomes and greetings everywhere, not just the empty compliments of touts and shopkeepers as a prelude to a sale, but genuine concern and best wishes.  When a Syrian says "you are most welcome" they really mean it.

There is a culture of hospitality among Syrians, and stopping to ask a teenage boy for directions results in you being taken to his family home to meet mother, father and sisters and sharing tea, sandwiches, biscuits and juice, with further invitation to join them for dinner and a family outing the next day. 

The Syrians rival the Malawians and Cambodians for friendliest people I have met.